Emporio Armani spring-summer 2010

Giorgio Armani looked to the future and explored the world of ‘plastic fantastic’ in his younger, Emporio Armani collection at Milan Fashion Week.

Swimsuits and bikinis were bedecked with Plexiglass brooches and necklaces as bright as molten lava. Sandals featured crimson Perspex heels and ankle-straps. Short, party dresses in Vesuvian shades of bright orange and fuschia, were cinched with shiny, shocking-pink, patent-leather belts.

The colours exploded like fireworks on the graphic PVC catwalk, sending a clear signal that Armani is once again working at full creative power after battling with hepatitis over the summer.

It was the designer’s second show in Milan in three days. On Thursday, he delivered an equally vibrant Giorgio Armani main line for spring/summer 2010.

Although Armani appears, naturally, to have lost some weight during the illness, he was in ebullient form as he took his bow at the end of the Emporio showing.

‘Tutto bene, (all’s well),’ he told the many guests who queued to congratulate him.

As in the main line collection, Emporio Armani offered a modern, sculpted silhouette for next season, with bell-shape and draped skirts well above the knee, worn with short, minis, ‘cycle shorts’ or gathered bloomers.

The bright colours were inspired by the bougainvillea, oleander and ranuncula in gardens on the southern coast of Italy. The bold shades were echoed in floral prints and multi-coloured stripes. As a contrast to the hot, sun-drenched palette, there were monochrome polka-dots and stripes to match the black-and-white catwalk, and urban shades of grey.

Although a wedge-shoe and a platform sandal occasionally appeared, many of the footwear styles, although heeled, were in tune with the zero-sole comeback which began at London Fashion Week, featured at the Prada show here on Thursday, and which now looks like ousting the reign of the ankle-threatening, skyscraper-platform.


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